‘Dining out has evolved rapidly; food biggest way of entertainment’ 

Food writer Ruth D’Souza Prabhu (C) and renowned restaurateur Gauri Devidayal (R) in conversation with Prabalika Borah, Senior Assistant Editor at The Hindu, during the ‘The Joy of Food’ panel discussion held at The Hindu Lit for Life Dialogue 2025 in Hyderabad on Friday
| Photo Credit: RAMAKRISHNA G

Dining out on payday or celebrating a birthday to eating out regularly now is part of a fast evolved food scene in the country. Part of that trend, including a rise in number of home chefs, old, innovative and experimental cooking, and restaurant and food businesses, is also because of the COVID-19 impact, observed panelists at The Hindu Lit for Life Dialogue 2025 here on Friday.

For Ruth Dsouza Prabhu, author of ‘India’s Most Legendary Restaurants’, the evolution arose from various situations and experiences, even for chefs. And for Gauri Devidayal, Mumbai-based restaurateur, the Indian food started making its mark, internationally too, after it moved out of the home kitchen.

The duo was sharing their thoughts in the session titled ‘The Joy of Food’, moderated by Prabalika M. Borah, Senior Assistant Editor at The Hindu, Hyderabad.

From cooking shows to travel and tourism, food has become the central idea, a newfound interest and sense of adventure, according to Ms. Devidayal, a trained auditor-turned-restaurateur. She believes ‘food is the biggest entertainment’. She noted that the failure of passionate and enthusiastic food start-ups, a visible trend in the country, is for lack of knowledge of the business aspects.

Hyderabad, Telangana, 13/12/2024: Food writer Ruth D’Souza Prabhu(C) and renowned restaurateur Gauri Devidayal(R),in conversation with Prabalika Borah, Senior Assistant Editor at The Hindu, during the‘The Joy of Food’panel discussion held at The Hindu Lit for Life Dialogue 2025, in Hyderabad on Friday, December 13, 2024. Photo: RAMAKRISHNA G/The Hindu
| Photo Credit:
RAMAKRISHNA G

Both Ms. Prabhu and Ms. Devidayal agreed that molecular gastronomy, the art and science of selecting, preparing, serving and enjoying food, as a trend was not needed in India. Fusion cuisine, combining different culinary traditions, is also subjective and works based on the chef and the audience.

“The food, its ingredients must speak for itself,” they said.

The 45-minute session included a handful of curious questions: Why India is unable to influence the western countries with its food? Any work being done around food aroma experience, particularly after loss of sense of smell during COVID-19? Even inexpensive food can give joy, but then fine dining brings unique cuisines. Why does a diverse movement such as food have to be so limited to the wealthy and out of reach of the commoners?

“It is subjective. A lot of fine dining places continue a legacy menu, even for 35-40 years and maintain a level of consistency and experience that some are willing to pay. Even street food — Panipuri, Vada pav and Bun Maska give joy,” Ms. Prabhu and Ms. Devidayal agreed.