Chandni Chowk is one of the beating hearts of Old Delhi. This is the place where you can hear whispers from between the cracks of the centuries-old walls, where the aroma of hot jalebis become your guide and where every small gali (lane) has a story to tell. This place is every history lover’s, shopper’s and foodie’s dream destination. While most of the visitors end up at famous lanes, they miss out on exploring Dariba Kalan for silver, or Khari Baoli for spices. Only some venture into the secret lanes which are silently tucked away behind Chandni Chowk’s crowded alleys. These hidden lanes are where you experience the real and raw side of Old Delhi. So let’s step away from the chaos, and get inside the 10 secret lanes of Chandni Chowk no one told you about.Kucha Pati Ram (The long-forgotten lane of calligraphers)You must have been to Chandni Chowk several times but we bet you must not have heard of Kucha Pati Ram. This is a long-forgotten lane of calligraphers which used to be a centre of Urdu and Persian calligraphers during the Mughal period. The moment you step inside this lane, a weird scratching sound will welcome your ears. This sound is of scratching of the qalam (pen) in old shops. You’ll be amazed to find that there are still families who still handwrite Quranic verses. in Nastaliq script. When here, you can’t miss out on visiting Shahid bhai’s 70 years old shop which serves as a living museum of calligraphy.Kinari Bazaar (Wedding shopping)
Kinari Bazaar is famous. But then there are small bylanes off the main road. Just slip into one of these and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find yourself surrounded by old havelis once owned by super-rich Marwari traders. Some of the courtyards here have carved stone balconies and ornate jharokhas which look unreal! Ballimaran’s Mirza Ghalib Trail
Not many must be aware of the fact that the old lanes of Chandni Chowk hide Mirza Ghalib’s haveli. Mirza Ghalib was a prominent poet of the 19th century and today his house, Gali Qasim Jaan, serves as a living museum (in a bad shape though). The museum has his clothes and books. The other hidden lanes here belong to cobblers and spice sellers. There’s also Gali Barna where you’ll find an old Unani medicine store (herbal) which has been around since 1850.Nai Sarak’s Book Alley
Nai Sarak here is noted for its wholesale book market. Many know about it. But only some are aware of a hidden alley where rare Urdu and Hindi first editions are available. Amanat Book Depot is among the oldest here and has been run by the same family for over a century. Gali Lohe Wali
Gali Lohe Wali is another lesser-known get here which served as the home to blacksmiths. Here, one can buy handcrafted copper pots, brass trays, and engraved lotas (vessels). You’ll be shocked to see artisans still shaping metal using foot-powered lathes. Chhatta Pratap Singh Gali
It’s a timeless and hauntingly beautiful place! Among many interesting features of Chandni Chowk, one is chhattas or covered markets. Chhatta Pratap Singh behind Dariba Kalan is also an unexplored gem. This used to be a jewellery market but today you’ll find watch repairers and gem polishers in this lane. This is also a perfect spot for antique coins. Chitli Qabar
Far from the madding crowd lies Chitli Qabar which is another quiet, and nearly poetic lane of Chandni Chowk. This is where old bakeries prepare delicious sheermal (saffron bread) and old stores selling fragrant attars. There is also a small Sufi shrine which adds to the overall intrigue. If you visit at dusk, you might see kids chasing kites. A beautiful scene!Kucha Mahajani
Kucha Mahajani is right behind Dariba Kalan. This is the gold and silver lane where Delhi’s oldest jeweller families trade quietly. Offbeat tourists often visit here to experience age-old techniques of jewellery making. Gali Anar
This blink-and-miss lane near Ballimaran was once lined with attar-makers. Today most shops have shut down, but one or two still sell handmade fragrances using old techniques. When here, buy ittar-e-anar (pomegranate perfume), it’s a local specialty that makers used to make for Mughal women. Fascinating, right?So, next time you plan a trip to Chandni Chowk, ditch the famous lanes and go on exploring these best-kept secrets and the stories behind!
