Another International Day of Forests was observed on March 21, and beyond symbolic gestures, it is time to acknowledge the role of forests in mitigating the planetary poly-crises of the Anthropocene. Forests are often called the lungs of the planet, but they are also its hidden kitchens. Yet, across the world, indigenous food systems that once thrived within forests are rapidly disappearing. In this context, this year’s theme, “Forests and food”, could not be more relevant. Food systems account for a staggering one-third of global greenhouse gas emissions, while simultaneously fuelling deforestation, biodiversity loss, and land degradation. Yet, a key solution lies hidden in plain sight — reviving forest-based food systems as a low-cost, climate-resilient alternative.
Ragi balls with wild greens are commonly eaten by the Soligas.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Our research on the indigenous Soliga community of the Biligiri Rangana Hills, or B.R. Hills, in Karnataka offers ample clues on how forests are intertwined with food, health, livelihoods, and the overall sense of well-being or “flourishing” of the community. For generations, the Soligas have depended on the forest’s bounty such as wild berries, tubers, mushrooms, and small game, ensuring a varied and nutritious diet. Additionally, the practice of shifting cultivation, with millets, legumes, and vegetables grown in the forest environment, has been central to their food security.
The recipes of traditional Soliga foods we collected bear testimony to this: their meals are dominated by locally foraged greens such as karavadi soppu (balloon vine), seege soppu (dill), areagge soppu (amaranth), and sasive soppu (mustard), along with legumes such as avarekalu (hyacinth beans), alasande (cowpea), and hurali (horse gram), and tubers. These ingredients are cooked using pepper corns and chilli, with little oil or fat. This way of cooking reflects the richness of the locally available bounty and their deep connection to the forest. However, many of these resources are now becoming scarce, or in some cases, completely lost, highlighting a fading way of life that once thrived in balance with nature.
Soligas celebrating roti habba (festival) in the forests.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Over the years, this forest-farm-food connection has unravelled particularly because of conservation policies that have reshaped the socio-economic and environmental landscape of the region. One of the most significant changes came with the resettlement of the Soliga tribes to the periphery of the forest for designating the B.R. Hills as a protected area for biodiversity conservation in 1974. This relocation has profoundly disrupted their ability to access wild food resources and maintain their customary food practices.
Furthermore, conservation policies introduced a ban on traditional litter-fire practices, which the Soligas had historically used to manage their agricultural lands. This practice of controlled burning was not only important for maintaining the health of the forests but also for cultivating specific crops that thrive in nutrient-rich, fire-managed soil. With the prohibition of fire practices, the forests have undergone significant ecological shifts, including the spread of the invasive Lantana species which has choked the native flora and diminished the availability of traditional food and medicinal plants, as other ecological studies from BR hills show.
Primary shift
Our research also highlights the diminishing importance of forests as a source of food and income among Soligas. The introduction of cash crops such as coffee on farms located on the forest fringes has been one of the primary shifts in the community’s agricultural practices. This shift towards cash crops is, in part, a response to the increasing crop raids by wildlife, which has made the cultivation of food crops such as millets and vegetables more difficult.
Tribal land rights and the location of settlements has played a crucial role in shaping the Soliga community’s access to food resources. The allocation of land rights, often subject to government policies and regulations, has influenced the degree to which the Soligas can practise subsistence farming and gather forest produce. The location of settlements, especially with respect to forest types and proximity to roads and markets, has also been a critical factor in determining food security. Communities located closer to markets and transportation networks have greater access to external food sources, but this has also led to an increased reliance on external food markets, further eroding traditional food systems.
The changing dynamics of forest ecosystems, agricultural practices, and land tenure have collectively altered the Soliga community’s food sovereignty and nutritional security. One of the significant transformations has been the increased reliance on the Public Distribution System, which provides subsidised food to low-income households. The PDS typically provides staples such as rice, wheat, and sugar, which, though essential for survival, are often nutritionally inadequate compared with the diverse and nutrient-dense foods traditionally gathered from the forest.
The tragedy is not just nutritional — it is also cultural. As younger generations move away from traditional foods, lured by the convenience of market-sourced alternatives, the knowledge of forest-based diets is fading. This generational shift, fuelled by globalisation and urbanisation, threatens to sever the deep-rooted connection between indigenous communities and their ecosystems.
But this is not just about the Soligas. The global environmental crisis demands a fundamental rethink on the way food is produced and consumed. Reviving forest-based food systems and securing land tenure for forest-dependent communities could be game-changers in the fight for climate resilience, biodiversity conservation, and nutritional security. In rural areas, agroforestry, integrating native fruit trees with traditional crops, can bolster rural food systems while providing income and strengthening livelihoods.
Even in cities, a rethink is required. Urban greening initiatives under government programmes such as the Green India Mission and Smart Cities Mission provide an opportunity to create food forests in urban spaces — community-managed green zones incorporating trees, shrubs, vines, and other plants that produce fruits, nuts and other edible products that can nourish both marginalised communities and urban biodiversity. Initiatives such as Mission LIFE, which encourages the use of indigenous herbs and medicinal plants, must actively revalourise our forgotten food systems. If we are serious about tackling climate change, ensuring food security, and upholding social justice, then forests must be reimagined — not just as lungs of the planet but also as kitchens of resilience.
Dhanya Bhaskar is Associate Professor of Ecosystem and Environment Management and Chairperson of Centre for Policy Studies at Indian Institute of Forest Management, Bhopal; Shreelata Rao Seshadri is Professor and Director, Ramalingaswami Centre on Equity and Social Determinants of Health, PHFI, Bengaluru; and Sheetal Patil is Lead, School of Environment and Sustainability, Indian Institute for Human Settlements, Bengaluru
Published – March 25, 2025 12:20 am IST
