Down the Silk Road in Uzbekistan

Entering the crowded Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent where the stalls are arranged in concentric circles, we were wondering which direction to take when a stocky vendor selling horse meat sausages yelled “Salaam Dost, Namaste India”.

Opposite him, the woman in a pretty scarf selling spices, flashing a toothy, golden smile, chimed in: “You India? I love India, Meri Jaan.”

A few stalls away, two elderly women, half-hidden behind heaps of dry fruits, joined their palms together. “Rajkumar, Rajkumari, welcome, everything gooood and cheap.”

At the ancient Silk Road city of Khiva, I was trying to photograph a splendid blue minaret when two women strode purposefully towards me.

“Mithun Chakraborty,” they giggled and crooned “Jimmy, Jimmy, Jimmy, Aaja, Aaja, Aaja,” a line from a song in his famous film Disco Dancer. Seeing my slightly surprised look, the duo told me Uzbeks watch a lot of Indian films and television serials, and recalled how popular Mithun’s films were in Soviet Russia. They wanted a selfie with me; I gladly acquiesced.

At restaurants, parks, streets and malls, people uninhibitedly begin a conversation in fragmented English and request selfies and thanked us profusely with handshakes, hugs or flying kisses.

It amused us that we had become celebrities of sorts in this former Soviet state and felt honoured that Uzbeks expressed so much warmth and love towards Indians despite the language barrier.

Any wonder why Indians are travelling in droves to this double-landlocked Central Asian country?

Since its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Uzbekistan has progressed significantly in key areas. Tourism has received a big boost in recent years with simplified visa procedures; the flight time between New Delhi and Tashkent is two-and-a-half hours and Uzbekistan’s weak currency makes everything cheaper including food, transportation and accommodation. A hundred U.S. dollars makes you a millionaire in the local currency Som.

Today, Bollywood may be a key connecting factor between Uzbekistan and India, but the two countries have a long history of cultural and trade ties dating back to centuries. Uzbekistan was at the crossroads of the ancient Silk Road trade routes connecting India, China and Europe and historical figures such as Babur and Akbar strengthened the bond between the two countries.

Given its rich history and its importance since millennia as a centre of trade and cultural exchange, Uzbekistan is home to ancient cities with magnificent monuments, art and architecture, thanks to the legacy left behind by conquerors such as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Amir Timur who brought together thinkers, scholars and traders from across the world.

The attractions are few but each of the cities on the Silk Road are quietly proud of their UNESCO World Heritage Sites and various historical and architectural treasures that conjure up legends of the past. With every step forward, you are transported over 100 years back with centuries of history unfolding. Interestingly, Uzbekistan is not stuck in its glorious past, it has embraced modernity and a progressive, cosmopolitan outlook while preserving its cultural heritage.

Be it Tashkent, Khiva, Bukhara or Samarkand, each has its own charm and surprises, offering travellers something unique.

If it is the Hazrati Imam Complex, the statues of Timur, Lal Bahadur Shastri, Mother of Courage and the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent, Khiva’s jewel is the Itchan Kala, the medieval fortress housing spectacular mausoleums, mosques, minarets, madrassas and palaces with different shades of blue.

Bukhara’s prized possessions are the 5th century Ark Fortress with rounded walls, the Bolo-Hauz Mosque that rests upon 20 carved wooden columns and the Samanid Mausoleum, a masterpiece of early Islamic art; while Samarkand with its exceptional history, exults in the magical Registan Square, an architectural complex with three ancient madrassas overlooking the square, mosques and mausoleums, all lavishly decorated with rich blues and gold leaf.

All these ancient monuments, some restored over time, with their beautiful turquoise domes, intricate mosaics and the opulently decorated interiors stand as testimony to Islamic art and culture of a certain era. Remarkably, some of the old historic neighbourhoods and archaeological sites are well conserved.

Markets are the best places to see the local side of life in any place. The Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent and the Siyob Bazaar in Samarkand are vibrant, colourful and bustling, selling all kinds of everything from local wares to imported stuff. Friendly vendors are quick to offer samples of sweets, breads, fresh or dry fruits before striking a bargain but don’t seem disappointed if you walk away without buying.

When it comes to food, Indians can feel quite at home with the ‘Plov’ topping the list of local cuisine. Like the Indian ‘Pulav’, it is made from rice, meat or vegetables, spices and dry fruits. Kebabs are popular. The Shashlik (Shish Kebab). Manty (steamed meat dumplings), Samsas (samosas with meat or vegetable filling) and Dolma (meat wrapped in grape leaves) are all-time favourites; Among soups, the traditional Laghman, a noodle soup served with meat or vegetables, is another staple. Every meal comes with ‘Non’ (local bread), salads and green tea.

Commendably, the major cities we visited were admirably clean, litter-free, with broad roads and plenty of greenery. Parks and avenues are lined with mulberry, chinar (maple) and other varieties, offering an eye-soothing experience. An efficient transport system including a high-speed bullet train connecting the three main cities makes travel quick and comfortable.

It is said people are what makes a place what it is. Indeed, the Uzbeks are friendly and helpful, exuding warmth and humility. Their love and admiration for Indians is spontaneous and genuine, something that can be attributed to a combination of age-old historical ties and Bollywood films which are a rage in Uzbekistan.

Nandini, a septuagenarian in our group, unfortunately, had a bad fall on the street and was rushed to hospital. She was screaming in pain and while the doctor was fixing her injured wrist, he sang Hindi film songs. That heart-warming gesture soothed her.

At the ancient Juma mosque, two young school boys accosted us. “You Indian, you speak English, your name?” Soon, their friends and teacher joined them. They were keen to know the city we came from, where we worked and how we knew English. As we spoke, some students clicked selfies, others eyed us with a mix of awe and curiosity. A cute fellow told my wife, “I love you”, before scampering away.

How does one explain such overwhelming affinity between peoples separated by hundreds of miles?

Indeed, travelling through the four old Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan was a fascinating relearning of history and an opportunity to discover and contemplate the wonders of a bygone era.

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